Repost for Father's Day: Shrimp Salad and a Love Song

reposted for Father's Day, 2012.

My dad, Joe, made a really good shrimp salad when I visited NY last week. He knows just how much mayonnaise to add and includes celery, too. I'll share the recipe in a minute, but want to tell you another thing or two about Joe that makes him extra spectacular.

1. He teaches English (used to be HS level, now tutors at the College level).
2. He has a great sense of humor and has taken to emailing New Yorker cartoon clippings he has saved over the years to all of us.
3. He is a fantastic writer with several children's books under his belt, as well as novelizations of 80's movies that made me proud in Jr. High.
4. He has a love for musicals, especially ones with great lyrics like "Guys and Dolls".
5. He writes lyrics.

Wait, what? I didn't know he was a lyricist until this summer when Ms. Iz and I visited for two weeks. Joe's friend Bobby wrote a piece of music and asked Joe to come up with some lyrics to go with it. Secretly, I guess, Joe had been waiting for someone to supply him with some music so he could try his hand at lyrics. I do recall him taking music theory classes when I was a kid, but thought that had to do more with learning how to write music.

Well, let me tell you something. I had the joy (with some heartbreak thrown in) today to hear a version of the song he wrote with the music Bobby crafted. The song was fantastic. The heartbreak comes with the news that Bobby got a late diagnosis with cancer and died within two weeks. The song was recorded by his daughter for his memorial service and shared with my family.

The lyrics are beautiful, and take on a new meaning with Bobby's passing. I know that Joe was pleased to have been able to collaborate on this project and I'm proud of the result.

We didn’t know the road ahead.

How could we know,

So long ago?

Because we didn’t know, we said

It will go on

Forever.

Yet time has many tricks to play,

And  time, we know,

Has played them all.

But still, when I look back today,

I see us then

Forever.

            If we knew

            All we know now,

            Then could we two

            Even know how

            To promise each other

            True happiness?

We thought we’d found the magic key.

We didn’t know.

How could we know?

We thought that we would always be

Like fine Bordeaux.

We did not know.

Make this shrimp salad and think of Joe's friend Bobby while you do so.

Shrimp Salad a la Joe

• 1.5 pounds of medium shrimp (20-25 to a pound)
• 2 stalks celery
• 2 scallions
• ¼ cup whole pepper corns
• 1 bay leaf
• ¾-1 cup mayonnaise
• salt, pepper, cayenne

• In a non-reactive pot, add pepper corns and bay leaf to about three quarts of water and bring  to a boil.
• Cook the shrimp for 4-5 minutes, until they’re the color of shrimp cocktail.
• Drain the hot water.  Run cold water over the shrimp, or let them sit for about 10 minutes.
• Dice the shrimp and put the pieces into a serving bowl.
• Chop the scallions and celery and add to the bowl.
• Add two tablespoons of mayonnaise and stir. Add more mayonnaise until you’re pleased with the mixture.
• Add salt, pepper, and cayenne to taste.
• Refrigerate for at least an hour, or as much as 24 hours.
• Serve with crackers or bite-size pieces of toasted bread.
• Serves 4-6 people.

Fish Stew: For Now or Later

It has been a long time since I spent Christmas Eve in New York with Gran Fran and Joe. My sister is here in San Francisco and we have our own family gatherings, but I do miss Gran Fran's Feast of the Seven Fishes. We do a pretty good job of it, if I may say so myself, out here in SF.

I remember one of the first times she made Boulliabase (which is essentially the same sort of recipe as the below). We drove out to the docks in Long Island and got the freshest shellfish there was. A story for another time, was when we got live Lobsters from the same fishermen and I had to sit in the back of the car with a plastic bag of crawling Lobsters near my feet.

But  I digress. My tale today is about making this stew, and serving it to your friends and family as part of any celebration or just as a weekend treat. You may have noticed, I have a thing for soups. Well, stews rank right up there, so this is another favorite of mine.

Gran Fran always uses the liquor Anisette mixed with vermouth for her version. I don't always have that in my cupboard, so use dry vermouth with fennel seeds. Let me tell you, there is a huge difference. The Anisette has a depth of flavor that you just can't get with my version. But, of course, as I always say, make do with what you have and you'll still end up with a great dish.

When I was home during Thanksgiving, Gran Fran was kind enough to make this wonderful fish stew for me. She let me take pictures while she cooked. I usually cook and shoot everything I post. It was eye-opening to try and work in real-time shots while Gran Fran cooked and not get in her way. We often communicate via yelling (not I'm angry-type yelling, more of an I'm just trying to make my point kind of yelling). And so, you can imagine, that Joe decided to excuse himself from this particular event, hiding out in their office.

In the end, the food was wonderful and I loved being able to document Gran Fran while she actually cooks. When she posts on her blog, I end up cooking the recipes myself here in SF and posting pictures for her. Oh the greatness of technology. But, there is nothing like having a tried-and-true dish made by the person who first served it to you. Mine is always good (and my sister and her husband's versions are great, too), but Gran Fran just adds a certain something.

Make this and add your own personal touches. Except for the method, you can add or subtract any amounts of fish to your liking.

Merry Christmas to you all!

recipe courtesy of Fran Claro, reposted from The Italian Pantry

Friday Night Fish Soup

Serves six

• 4 tablespoons olive oil
• 2 cups potatoes, diced
• 1 cup carrots, diced
• 1 cup celery, diced
• 1 cup onions, diced
• Salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 2 tablespons tomato paste
• 4 tablespoons anisette or other licorice-flavored liqueur
• 1/4 cup dry vermouth
• 2 bay leaves
• Sprinkle of red pepper flakes
• 1 teaspoon dried basil or 1 tablespoon fresh
• 2 quarts boiling water
• 1 1/2 pounds cod fillet, skinned, rinsed
• 3 dozen little neck clams, well scrubbed
• 1 pound mussels, debearded and well scrubbed

1. Warm oliveoil in a pot large enough to hold all ingredients.
2. Add vegetables; sprinkle with salt and pepper.
3. Saute vegetables until golden, about 15 minutes.
4. Add tomato paste;  saute over low heat 10 minutes.
5. Add anisette and vermouth; reduce by half.
6. Add herbs, pepper flakes; cover all ingredients with boiling water.
7. Bring to boil; reduce to simmer.
8. Partially cover; simmer 30 minutes, or until vegetables are tender.
9. Add cod; simmer 10 minutes.
10. Return soup to boil.
11. Add clams and mussels.
12. After 7 minutes, check if shellfish open; remove from shells.
13. Cook shellfish until most open;  discard any that have  not opened.
14. Add shelled seafood to soup.
15. Serve soup with crusty bread.

Something’s Fishy: Feast of the Seven Fishes

Every year, the first week of December kicks off the planning of the Feast of the Seven Fishes, in San Francisco for my sister and myself, and in NYC for Gran Fran and the rest of our family.

What, you may ask is this Feast of the Seven Fishes you speak of, Miss? It’s a tradition to serve a meal consisting of seven fishes on Christmas Eve, if you’re from an Italian family (specifically, it’s more of a Southern Italian tradition, and since Gran Fran’s family hailed from Naples, and Joe’s (our Dad) family came from Calabria, we fit the bill perfectly).

The basic premise is that Roman Catholics didn’t eat meat on Christmas Eve, just as in years gone by, they wouldn’t eat meat on Good Friday, and every Friday. This all changed with Vatican II. But old traditions die hard and besides being tasty, fish is abundant in Southern Italy, San Francisco, and NYC.

So it remains the food to feast on before heading to Midnight Mass. There is no hard evidence on the “why” behind the number seven being chosen, some theorize it’s because of the Seven Sacraments, but others think it might have to do with seven of the of the Ten Commandments. Doesn’t really matter. For ours and most Italian-American families, Christmas Eve was and continues to be all about the fishes.

I have several fond, adult memories of recreating the Feast here in San Francisco, one great New York memory, and some odd childhood reluctance to eat many of the fishes presented to me.

Gran Fran’s menu usually includes: Calamari in Spicy Tomato Sauce, Brandade, Fried Whiting (converted to Fried Fish Salad on the following day), Breaded Shrimp and Scallops, Fillet of Sole, Anchovy Pasta, and Baccala (dried cod) in Tomato Sauce.

Let’s start with childhood. I was always in the kitchen with Gran Fran (and it should also be noted here that Joe is an excellent cook in his own right, with one of his recipes appearing below), hanging around to see what she was making and how. But, when Gran Fran was cooking, you were a guest, not a participant. In those sessions, I learned how to make Brandade (salt cod with potatoes), Anchovy Pasta, and many Fillet of Sole and Red Snapper recipes.

Once they hit the table, the Anchovy Pasta was pretty much the only thing I’d put on my plate, until Gran Fran would prompt me with something like “What’s the matter-you? Get some of everything on your plate, or I’ll smack you upside the head.” (Occasionally, she would also threaten to break my feet. But she never did me any physical harm, in case you were worried.)

Reluctantly, I’d get the plate loaded up and eat as little as I could get away with, except for the Anchovy Pasta, which I kept stocking up on.As I got older, all the fishes began to taste good to me, so it has been a pleasure re-creating the Feast here in SF. My sister and I have prepared at least two fishes each every year for the past 16 Christmas Eves, with this year culminating in the ultimate seven fishes.

But more on that in a minute. I want to talk about Christmas Eve 2006, which is the only one I’ve spent in NYC, between 1992 and 2008.On this particular occasion, Gran Fran and Joe had a houseful of guests from San Francisco, including me and my family and my sister and her family as sleepover guests. By the time we hit Christmas Eve day, it was clear that with the crowd of 23 (which consisted only of my 4 siblings’ families, my family, and my parents), Gran Fran would need some help making the fishes.

As it turned out, I ended up making the Steamed Mussels in Sauce and tending to the Breaded Fillet of Sole.Within a matter of moments, I became the Queen of Gran Fran’s kitchen. Which, was great not only because I knew I could live up to the legacy of her cooking but also because it would be the last Christmas Eve we would have in my childhood home. The tomato sauce bubbled, the sole sizzled, and I stayed right on top of it all. The results were awesome.

I used everything I learned over the years when I hosted Christmas Eve, 2008. We did make the Brandade, the Anchovy Pasta, and the Fillet of Sole just like Gran Fran. But the other four dishes were new twists, contributed by our West Coast friends and family. We had Chestnut Soup with Lump Crab Meat and Chanterelles, Smoked Trout with Salad Greens, Pecans and Grapefruit Slices, Steamed Clams and Chilean Sea Bass over Greens.

Yes, it’s about the fish, but it’s about family, holiday cheer, and tradition.The tradition lives on, even with my daughter, Iz, who is into fish; she made it her mission that we hit the magic number seven by keeping track of everyone’s contributions. I know that in the future she will continue the fishy-madness and make Gran Fran proud.

This is a link to Gran Fran’s blog, theitalianpantry.com with the original post regarding the Feast of the Seven Fishes: http://theitalianpantry.com/2006/12/12/the-christmas-eve-feast/

Pasta with Anchovies

(Neapolitan)

Serves 8

You will need a heavy-bottomed non-reactive saucepan and a 5 to 8qt stock pot. Ingredients:

• 2 cans best anchovy fillets wrapped around capers
• 3 cloves of garlic quartered
• 1/2 cup olive oil
• Red pepper flakes to taste
• 1/2 cup fresh bread crumbs ground from good quality white bread
• 2 tablespoons chopped Italian flat leaf parsley
• 1 1/2 pounds spaghettini

Method:

• Put salted water on to boil for pasta.
• While pasta is boiling, in a skillet heat olive oil until it shimmers.
• Add garlic and cook until it is golden.
• Add red pepper flakes and anchovies with their oil.
• Stir rapidly to break up anchovies. Reduce heat.
• Add bread crumbs and toss until crumbs are golden.
• Remove skillet from heat. Drain pasta. Stir in sauce.

Note: The recipe above specifies salt only in the pasta water because the recipe contains salty anchovies.

Baccala

(Neapolitan)

Serves 6 as a side dish

Order about 1 1/2 pounds of dried cod that has been soaked at the fish market. (You have to order this several days in advance to give the fishmonger time to soak it. The fish will expand to about 2 1/2 pounds after soaking. If you think this won't be enough to satisfy your guests, order more, and adjust the recipe accordingly. The dish can be served reheated. Don't worry about leftovers.)

You will need a non-reactive 5 to 8qt stock pot. Ingredients:

• Large white onion diced
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 3 T. anisette or pernod
• 1/4 cup dry white wine
• Pinch of salt
• Sprinkle fennel seeds
• Freshly ground pepper
• Red pepper flakes to taste
• Bay leaf
• Package Pomi strained tomatoes

• As soon as you get the fish home, place it in a large bowl of cold water in the refrigerator.
• Change water about every two hours until you are ready to cook fish.
• In a heavy, nonreactive pot, sauté the onion in the oil.
• Add spices.
• Reduce heat and carefully add the wine and anisette.
• Over a medium flame, allow the alcohol to evaporate.
• Stir in tomatoes.
• Simmer sauce until thick and reduced by half--about 30 minutes.
• Drain fish. Rinse well. Dry on paper towels. Cut into serving pieces.
• Add fish to simmering sauce. Partially cover pot. Allow fish to simmer nicely about 40 minutes.
• It should be totally opaque and flaky when cooking is complete. (Again, not too much salt because the fish is salty.)

Fritto Misto

(popular all over)

Serves 12 people (--but since it's a world-class favorite, you shouldn't cook less.)

You will need 2 large non-reactive frying pans; 2 jelly roll pans (baking sheets with a lip) Ingredients:

• 1 1/2 pounds well-soaked and well-dried baccala
• 3 pounds calamari thoroughly cleaned and skinned, including tentacles
• 1 1/2 lb. whiting (merluzzo) fillets with bones removed if possible
• 2 pounds large shrimp, deveined and washed
• 2 pounds scallops, well rinsed
• 2 pounds lemon sole or flounder fillets
• 3 cups all-purpose flour
• 2 teaspoons salt
• 2-4 cups olive oil (NOT extra-virgin)
• 4 lemons sliced in quarters

Method: Preheat oven to 200 degrees (To make the best fried fish: Keep it refrigerated up to the moment of preparation. Then make sure the fish is absolutely positively clean. Wash, wash, wash until your hands turn red from the cold water.)

• Heat frying pans and add enough oil to completely cover the bottoms with a layer about 1/8-inch thick. You'll add more oil as you need it.
• Place the flour in a paper lunch bag. Before you add the salt to the flour, shake the baccala in the flour. Then remove the baccala and add salt to the flour.
• While pans are heating begin to flour fish. Flour only a few pieces at a time. Fry fish in hot oil, making sure there is enough room between pieces to ensure even browning. As fish is fried place it on baking sheets.
• Place sheets in oven to keep fish warm. Add more oil as needed to pans. If flour forms a heavy coating in pan, wipe out pan, add fresh oil, and start again.

Serve fish as soon as possible after frying. Pass lemon slices to accompany fish.

Fried Fish Salad

• Early in day, select one of the fishes above, not the seafood, fry according to recipe above.
• Arrange fish on platter.
• Sprinkle fish with:

• Red pepper flakes
• Thinly sliced onion rings
• Small quantity vinegar.Cover platter closely with plastic wrap. Refrigerate salad several hours before serving.

Mussels

Serves 6 as a side dish

• 4 pounds cultivated mussels
• 6 cloves garlic quartered
• 1/2 c. olive oil
• Freshly grated pepper
• Pinch salt
• 3 tablespoons anisette
• 1 cup dry white wine
• 1/4 cup chopped flat-leaf Italian Parsley

You will need a deep nonreactive skillet.

• Scrub and debeard mussels.
• Sauté garlic in olive oil, add salt and pepper, wine and anisette.
• Let alcohol evaporate. Return heat to high.
• Add parsley and mussels.
• Cover pan closely. Shake pan occasionally until mussels open. Discard any unopened mussels. Serve with crusty Italian bread.

Baked Red Snapper

(Neapolitan) Serves 6

• 1 whole red snapper, slit down one side, cleaned, gutted, head removed, well washed and dried
• 1 large onion
• 1/4 cup olive oil
• 1/2 cup freshly made bread crumbs from good quality white bread
• Salt
• Freshly ground pepper
• 1/2 pound large shrimp, cleaned, deveined, washed, dried and diced
• 3 tablespoons white wine plus 3 additional tablespoons

You will need a non-reactive skillet and an ovenproof nonreactive baking dish.

• Preheat oven to 400 degrees
• Rub fish all over with some of the oil.
• Add a tablespoon of the oil to a large nonreactive baking dish. Rub the dish with the oil.
• Heat the remaining oil in a skillet. Sauté the diced onion until it is slightly golden and translucent.
• Add salt pepper, bread crumbs. Stir until crumbs begin to turn pale gold.
• Increase heat, add shrimp. Saute shrimp until cooked through.
• Add the 3 tablespoons wine. Stir. Remove from heat.
• Mix shrimp, onion, and crumbs together to form stuffing for fish.
• Stuff cavity of red snapper with mixture. Hold fish closed with toothpicks if necessary.
• Sprinkle remaining 3 tablespoons of wine over and around fish.
• Bake 25-30 minutes or until fish flesh is opaque, and skin is golden.

Saffron Rice...Don't Forget to Remove the Bay Leaf!

Hello Friends. Have I told you about Gran Fran's Saffron Rice with Shrimp? It is truly extraordinary. I cannot recall a time without it showing up on a large buffet set out for friends and family. There is some idea in my brain that it was always included in group parties, but I don't recall it being made as a main course until we were grown.But, beyond the loveliness of the dish, I do know that I will always hear Gran Fran's voice in my head, loud and clear "You can make a nice dish of Saffron Rice with Shrimp, but don't forget to remove the bay leaf." She said this with a warning in her voice that matched only her request for us kids to cross the street when a dog we didn't know approached us.

I suppose she is right. The bay leaf can be sharp and doesn't really taste all that good. But, the flavor it lends to a recipe is immeasurable.

So, in closing on this little post, enjoy the following dish. Simple to make, serves many and is generally enjoyed by a host of different palettes.

But "Don't forget to remove the bay leaf."

Saffron Rice with Shrimp

serves 6 as a main course

Ingredients:

• 2 cups Rice
• 5 cups Water
• 6 Boullion cubes
• 1/2 cup White wine, Vermouth or Pernod
• 2 cloves Garlic, quartered
• 4 Tbsps Butter
• 1 tube Saffron
• 1 Bay Leaf
• 1/4 Tsp Fennel Seeds (if you have them on hand)
• Salt, Pepper and Red Pepper Flakes to taste

Method:

• Bring water, boullion, garilc, butter, saffron and bay leaf, fennel, pepper and red pepper flakes to a boil in a large nonreative pan.
• Once it has reached the boil, reduce the heat to medium and allow to simmer for 20 minutes or so.
• Add the rice to the liquid. Bring to a boil again. Stir rice and reduce heat to medium/low to achieve a simmer.
• Cover closely with a fitted lid, and simmer for 21 minutes or until all the liquid has been absorbed.

Sauteed Shrimp for Saffron Rice

Ingredients:

• 1 Lb. Shrimp, cleaned and deveined, tails off
• 2 Tbsps Butter
• 1/4 Tsp Fennel Seeds
• 1 Lemon, zest and juice
• 1/4 cup White Wine, Vermouth or Pernod
• Salt, Pepper, Red Pepper Flakes to Taste

Method:

• Heat nonreactive skillet over high heat.
• Add butter herbs and spices and lower heat a little somewhere between medium and high. Sautee for 1 minute.
• Once butter has melted, add shrimps. Sautee until opaque, about 4 minutes.
• Remove shrimps from pan.
• Turn off the flame. Add wine, lemon juice and zest to pan and turn the flame back on the medium. Reduce the liquid by about half, scraping up the brown bits in the pan at the same time.
• Pour the liquid over the shrimp.
• Stir it all together with the rice and ENJOY!